Selasa, 25 Mei 2021

Blood Orange Hefeweizen recipe, oxygenation and more

Brew Day Bulletin
Dear Homebrewer,
In this Blood Orange Hefeweizen recipe [Free], blood orange is a perfect match for the banana and clove of a traditional hefeweizen. This Boysenberry CrΓ¨me Blonde Ale [Digital Members] straddles the line between decadent and quaffable. 
Learn the difference between aeration and oxygenation [Digital Members], as well as how to tinker with the level of dissolved oxygen (DO) to produce variances in your beer.
Mr. Wizard takes on pre-boil vs. post-boil water ion concentrations [Digital Members] and troubleshoots fluctuating mash temperatures [Free]. 
Do you want shinier kegs? Build a keg polisher [Digital Members]. Etch your kettle [Free] to add volume markers to your brew kettle. 
Finally, there's a strong argument for small-batch brewing [Digital Members]. We've considered the pros and cons.
Cheers!
Brad Ring
Publisher
Read & Brew: Free Content For All
Recipe
Blood Orange Hefeweizen

Blood orange is a perfect match for the banana and clove of a traditional hefeweizen. The OG and SRM are for the base beer. The FG and ABV include the fruit addition.

(5 gallons/19 L, all-grain) 
OG = 1.053  FG = 1.013
IBU = 9  SRM = 4   ABV = 5.2%

Ingredients
4.3 lbs. (1.95 kg) German Pilsner malt 
6.4 lbs. (2.9 kg) pale wheat malt
2.1 AAU German Hallertau hops (55 min.) (0.55 oz./16 g at 3.8% alpha acids)

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Article
Aeration and Oxygenation

These two terms, aeration and oxygenation, are fairly similar processes and most often referenced as beneficial processes in brewing. For a long time they were considered a must for homebrewers, but these days they aren't deemed as significant and are factors that can be tinkered with depending on the situation and the brewer's desired outcome for the beer.

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Ask Mr Wizard
Fluctuating mash temperatures

Q Just how critical is temperature control in all-grain brewing? I have recently built a basic three-tier all-grain system out of three converted kegs. I am in the Air Force, and currently stationed in England. Unfortunately, I must brew outdoors. This time of year the weather is cold, cloudy, windy, wet, and rainy especially on the weekends during my brewing sessions. I have brewed six 5-gallon batches (witbier, honey wheat, Trappist ale, ESB, brown ale, and a kΓΆlsch) and with every batch I have had a difficult time keeping my target temperature of 152° to 154° F. My temperatures bounce back and forth between 145° and 160° F. I usually hold my target temperature for 75 minutes of the 90-minute mash. When the temperature does fluctuate, I get it back to the target as quickly as possible.

The batches have turned out with a normal OG for their particular style, and they have tasted great. My goal is to constantly improve my brewing techniques and create the best brew possible. Should I be concerned with these temperature fluctuations? If so, do you have any suggestions for controlling the temperature in my battle with this wicked weather?


A Mash temperature in all-grain brewing has a significant and demonstrable affect on beer flavor. In general, multi-temperature mash profiles incorporating temperature rests from 120* to 160* F will produce more fermentable worts than single temperature mashes held between 152* and 154* F. 
 

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Project
Etch Your Kettle

If you've ever tried to figure out your mash efficiency, monitor your evaporation rate, or compare your boil volumes to what your recipe estimated, you very quickly find a need to measure your brew kettle volumes at various stages during the brew day. Unfortunately, a lot of brew kettle manufacturers do not include volume markers.

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Recipe
Boysenberry Crème Blonde Ale

This fruit beer straddles the line between decadent and quaffable. The OG and SRM are for the base beer. The FG and ABV include the impact of the fruit addition. 

(5 gallons/19 L, all-grain) 
OG = 1.065  FG = 1.024
IBU = 15  SRM = 5   ABV = 5%

Ingredients
4.9 lbs. (2.2 kg) Golden Promise pale ale malt 
4 lbs. (1.8 kg) 2-row brewer's malt
0.5 lb. (0.23 kg) light Munich malt (6 °L)
 

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Article
Small Batch Brewing

Like perhaps many of you, I started brewing in college, having been given a 1-gallon (3.8-L) all-grain brewing kit for my birthday. That first brew day was predictably chaotic — my mash swung between 140–170 ˚F (60–77 °C) — but the resulting beer was drinkable, and intriguingly recognizable as beer. And with that revelation I was just about hooked. Soon enough, I grabbed a copy of John Palmer's How to Brew and noticed something: The world seemed to be built for 5-gallon (19-L) brewing. 

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Ask Mr. Wizard
Pre-Boil vs. Post-Boil Water Ion Concentrations

I've been researching water chemistry for brewing and I haven't found an answer to my question. When you are planning for the chemistry of the water, do you target the ratio of the chemistry pre-boil or post-boil? Do the minerals evaporate out of the water or do they concentrate in it? This question has been bothering me, one of your fervent readers, for a while.


This is a really good question. Water chemistry is discussed in terms of pre-mash concentrations with minimal attention given to the concentration of ions following mashing (and boil). Perhaps the primary reason for this view is that water chemistry's greatest influence on beer is through its effect on mash and wort pH. Malt enzymes, protein precipitation in the mash and boil, extraction of malt tannins, alpha acid isomerization, and color development during boiling are some of the key brewing variables affected by the wort's pH.
 

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Project
Keg Polisher: Give your kegs a shine

So the first question that may be asked is "Why?" For me it came after I successfully built an effective keg washer and had nice clean kegs on the inside but that were scuffed, scratched, dented, and oxidized on the outside. And not that it's necessarily an issue but we all know, a scratched and oxidized stainless surface is harder, if not impossible, to sanitize. Not that the outsides need to be sanitized . . . but it surely can't hurt and they certainly look nicer.

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