Selasa, 18 Agustus 2020

Raspberry Gose recipe and more

Brew Day Bulletin
Dear Homebrewer,
This month marks the 25th anniversary of BYO! To celebrate, we reached out to breweries that released special anniversary beers themselves and collaborated on publishing clone recipes [Digital Members], including Sierra Nevada Brewing Co.'s Hoppy Anniversary Ale cloneUrban Chestnut Brewing Co.'s Hallertau Haze clone, and more.
Here are the fundamentals of stainless steel conicals [Free] for homebrewers, and Mr. Wizard advises on how to maximize your pressure-rated conical [Digital Members].
In this Ode to val d'or recipe [Digital Members], the very spritzy levels of carbonation with a slight sour note and distinctive Brett character make the beer feel prickly on the tongue. And don't miss this Raspberry Gose recipe [Free].
Beer oxidation can occur shockingly fast. Mr. Wizard explains the best way to gauge the speed of oxidation [Free].
This week's project plans include a counterflow wort chiller [Free] and a heat shield to help you retain that wasted energy [Digital Members].
Cheers!
Brad Ring
Publisher
Read & Brew: Free Content For All
Recipe
Raspberry Gose

(5 gallons/19 L, all-grain)
OG = 1.046  FG = 1.009
IBU = 0  SRM = 3  ABV = 4.7%

Ingredients
4.7 lbs. (2.13 kg) German Pilsner malt 
4.7 lbs. (2.13 kg) pale wheat malt
5 lbs. (2.3 kg) frozen raspberries
0.75 oz. (21 g) Indian coriander, freshly ground (15 min.)

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NanoCon goes online!
Don't miss targeted live online brewing and business seminars to help you run or launch a successful small-scale craft brewery in these challenging times. 
Article
Fundamentals of Stainless Steel Conicals

Throughout history brewers have probably utilized every type of vessel they could get their hands on to ferment their brew. From sheepskins, clay pots, glass, enamel, and everything between. The English had their open wood vats and Burton union fermenters. The Belgians utilized open flat coolships for natural cooling and also spontaneous fermentation. Lager breweries in Europe used pitch-lined open fermenters. And like brewers today, they adopted new technology to brewing whenever they could.

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Ask Mr Wizard
Trying to Gauge the Speed of Oxidation

While reading an article in a recent issue of BYO I was left with a question about how long it takes oxygen to cause oxidation. I know it depends on temperature, but give me some ranges. For example, when packaging bottle-conditioned beer there is some oxygen exposure but the yeast rapidly consume any oxygen they can. Is the beer oxidized before the yeast can act or does the yeast consume the oxygen before the undesired reactions have time to take place? I cold crash my beer (with a CO2 source for suckback) and bottle while still quite cold (40–45 °F/4–7 °C). This would presumably slow any oxidation reactions but it also slows the yeast metabolism. Which one wins the race as the bottled beer warms up or does it affect both equally?

This is a terrific question and is well suited for a terrifically short answer. Beer oxidation can occur shockingly fast, especially if a beer is the sort to easily show off oxidized aromas. And the rate of oxidation doubles when the storage temperature of beer is increased by about 15 °F (8 °C); for example, beer stored at 39 °F (4 °C) that retains 90% of its freshness after 30 days will have a similar level of oxidation in 15 days when stored at 54 °F (12 °C). Yeast can prolong freshness, but the notion that yeast quickly consume oxygen is not true if the yeast is old and tired, especially if the cell density in the package is low.
 

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Project
Build a Counterflow Wort Chiller

As homebrewers we all want to cool our wort quickly after the boil. Wort needs to be cooled to a temperature at which the yeast can be safely pitched. Quick cooling also helps with cold break formation and — when some very light base malts are used — helps minimize the production of dimethyl sulfide (DMS), a molecule that lends a cooked corn odor to beer. In addition, moving the wort quickly through the 160–120 °F (71–49 ºC) range ensures that contaminating organisms have a smaller chance to gain a foothold at these temperatures that are favorable to their growth.

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Recipe
Ode to val d'or

Orval pours orange-brown with a big, rocky head. The very spritzy levels of carbonation with a slight sour note and distinctive Brett character make the beer feel prickly on the tongue. Orval is dry and has little hop bitterness or flavor, although it is the only Trappist ale to be dry hopped. This recipe creates a beer similar to the Orval beer distributed to the US with a higher ABV.

(5 gallons/19 L, all-grain)
OG = 1.056  FG = 1.002
IBU = 33  SRM = 9  ABV = 6.9%

Ingredients
8.5 lbs. (3.8 kg) Pilsner malt
1.3 lbs. (0.6 kg) English light crystal malt (40 °L)
2.2 lbs. (1 kg) candi syrup (1 °L)
 

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Article
Celebrating Milestones

The year was 1995. Toy Story, Apollo 13, and Batman Forever dominated the big screen. Hootie and the Blowfish, TLC, and Better Than Ezra were climbing the Billboard charts. The OJ Simpson trial dominated headlines. Craft beer big guns like AleSmith, Allagash, and Bear Republic were founded. And a magazine named Brew Your Own was established with the intent of helping people brew better beer at home.

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Ask Mr. Wizard
Maximizing Your Pressure-Rated Conical

I've just bought a 20-L (5.25-gallon) conical bottom, pressure fermenter and I am keen to try it out. I primarily brew all-grain lagers with the odd ale and do so in 10-L (2.6-gallon) batches using carboys. I like variety in my beer and so keep batches small. My questions are: 1) At what fermenting temperature and for how long? Because of our hot climate I will still need to ferment in a cooled environment during our summers. 2) Is the hopping rate the same for pressure fermenting as for atmospheric fermenting? Please consider that I also hot cube (No-Chill Method) the beer prior to fermenting — Can't afford to waste water in Australia. 3) What is the best way to dry hop a pressure-fermented brew? 4) How long will I need to lager the beer?


Welcome back to the world of homebrewing after your quarter-century hiatus! Not sure where you are in the process of brewing your current batch of New England IPA and hope this answer helps clear up a few things in your quest for unclarity. My basic advice is to give your beer a few days in your secondary to allow fermentation to complete and those hops that you probably tossed in towards the last couple days of fermentation to settle, and then transfer to your keg where you can cool, carbonate, and enjoy.
 

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Project
Heat Shield: Retain that wasted energy

As an engineer by trade, I find that I have a natural tendency to improve upon things to make them more efficient, cheaper, and faster. If you've seen Dilbert's "the Knack" clip, you get the idea. Brewing, with its numerous processes and large number of variables, will likely provide me with years and years of tinkering.

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