Selasa, 12 April 2022

Hit your target gravity, Scottish Ale recipe, and more

Brew Day Bulletin
Dear Homebrewer,
We dug deep in the archives for this week's recipes: Clermont Scottish Ale recipe [Free] and Nitro Stonefruit Sour recipe [Digital and Plus Members].
Learn how to carbonate your kegged beer naturally in Spunding 101 [BYO+ video].
Three brewers who won medals at the Great American Beer Festival give us the inside scoop [Digital and Plus Members] on winning homebrew competitions.
Does having two airlock blowouts during the first 12 hours of fermenting mean that the batch is bad? Mr. Wizard answers [Digital and Plus Members]. 
Here's how to consistently hit your target gravity [Free], and Mr. Wizard explains diluting high gravity beer [Free].
In projects, we tackle a whirpool port install [Free] and keg polisher [Digital and Plus Members].
Cheers!
Brad Ring
Publisher
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BYO+ Video: Spunding 101
Video
Spunding 101

You can carbonate your kegged beer naturally using spunding. Learn how the calculations, equipment, and best practices for this technique with Brew Your Own Magazine's Technical Editor Ashton Lewis.

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Read & Brew: Free Content For All
Recipe
Clermont Scottish Ale

(5 gallons/19 L, all-grain)
OG = 1.037  FG = 1.008

IBU = 23  SRM = 12  ABV = 3.8%

Ingredients
2 lbs. (0.91 kg) Pilsner malt
5 lbs. (2.3 kg) British pale ale malt
1 lb. (0.45 kg) flaked wheat
 

Read more

Article
Hit Your Target Gravity

When your neighborhood pub stops serving your favorite English bitter, what can you do? Make your own, of course. Homebrewers thrive on the challenge of recreating the round malts and bracing hops of popular beer styles. Armed with a hydrometer, experienced homebrewers can construct a beer from the ground up, starting with specific gravity.


Read more
Ask Mr. Wizard
Diluting High Gravity Beer

I am one week away from tasting my first homebrew — an amber ale. Prior to brewing I read a couple of different "instructions" on how to brew. The one I followed said that after transferring to a secondary fermenter, I should top up with water to about four inches from the top of the carboy, which I did. It was probably a gallon (4 L) of water. While taking hydrometer readings before bottling (1.007 FG) I tasted the sample and it was very light bodied, like a Budweiser, even though it had a nice amber color. Is this because I added more water? Do I need to add this additional water to the secondary fermenter?

A I must confess, this is one homebrewing practice I have never come across. What you are describing is, however, practiced by almost every large commercial brewery in the world and is called high-gravity brewing (HGB).


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Project
Whirpool Port Install

During a brew day several years ago, I was lamenting the extremely sluggish process of draining my boil kettle into my fermenters. I have a counterflow chiller, but in order to get pitchable-temperature wort into the fermenter, I had to run the wort at just a trickle even while my chilling water was at full bore. As one familiar with Newton's Law of Cooling, I realized also how much water I was wasting; heat transfers more quickly when the temperature gradient is steeper. 

Read More

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Recipe
Nitro Stonefruit Sour

(5 gallons/19 L, all-grain)
OG = 1.044 FG = 1.011
SRM = 3 IBU = 6 ABV = 4.3%
 

Ingredients
9 lbs. (4.1 kg) Dingemans Pilsen malt
2 lbs. (0.91 kg) flaked oats
1 vanilla bean (day 5)
 

Read more

Article
Winning Competitions: Tips from the Pros

Three brewers who won medals at the Great American Beer Festival give us the inside scoop to competing in—and winning—homebrew competitions.
.

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Ask Mr. Wizard
Airlock Blowout

Q. Does having two airlock blowouts during the first 12 hours of fermenting mean that I have a bad batch?


Read More

Project
Keg Polisher: Give your kegs a shine

So the first question that may be asked is "Why?" For me it came after I successfully built an effective keg washer and had nice clean kegs on the inside but that were scuffed, scratched, dented, and oxidized on the outside. And not that it's necessarily an issue but we all know, a scratched and oxidized stainless surface is harder, if not impossible, to sanitize. Not that the outsides need to be sanitized . . . but it surely can't hurt and they certainly look nicer.

Read More

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